The Great Indian, Archway, London: The Sunday roast meets an explosion of Indian spice
A hidden gem in North London for those that think they know their roasts inside-out.
Sunday rolls in, Monday beckons, the 5-a-side league match has left the calves in pieces and all you can think about is what to have for lunch: Sunday roast, or a curry?
Sunday roast, or a curry…?
If you’ve ever wondered, “Why not both?”, you’re not alone. And you can rest easy —The Great Indian, an Indian-food focussed gastro pub, has answered the call. You’ll never look at a Yorkshire pudding the same way again.
WHERE IS IT?
Tucked away on a residential street in Archway, about a 15 minute walk from the Underground station, The Great Indian sits off the main drag. It’s more restaurant than boozer, but it still feels like a local, with the feeling that regulars fill its tables, er, regularly, and the in-the-know are happy to make the pilgrimage.
With two main dining areas, a glitzy bar and a botanical decor teeming with plants, it’s a welcoming, attractive space, too, a touch at odds with its classic pub exterior.
WHAT’S SPECIAL?
It’s not everyday you find Indian cuisine heading up the theme of a gastropub, let alone one with the kitchen pedigree The Great Indian has. Its menu has been created by award-winning, Michelin-bothering Surjan Singh — better known as Chef Jolly, and a bit of a social star in part thanks to his appearance on India’s MasterChef. The main menu has playful takes on Indian classics (Punjabi lamb curry with a cheese and jalapeno naan, anyone?) and is worth investigating in its own right. But we were checking out The Great Indian for a very specific purpose…
WHAT’S NEW?
Yep, you read the headline, so you know what you’re here for — The Great Indian is giving the humble Sunday roast a spicy makeover, fusing the meat, veg-and-a-yorkie staple with all the aromatic and fiery explosiveness of a curry.
WHO SHOULD YOU BRING?
The Great Indian feels like a family affair, or a gang-of-mates go-to, rather than a romantic hideaway. Come ready to be stuffed, and with someone who won’t sneer at the odd bead of sweat if you choose to take on one of the hotter dishes. Pets are welcome too, so long as you give notice to the restaurant.
WHAT SHOULD YOU WEAR?
Surrounded by family and friends and in what’s ostensibly a well-decked-out pub, there’s no fancy dress code here.
WHAT WILL YOU PAY?
If you’re grabbing a few sides and starters to go with a main off the core menu, you’re looking at £30 to £40 a head. If you're in for one of the roasts, you’re looking at:
- Braised Rolled Lamb Shoulder: £29
- Tandoor Roasted Chicken: £27
- Pork Belly: £27
- Vegetable Pot Pie: £25
Each comes with pan-fried new potatoes with garlic, cumin and spring onion, roasted parsnips and English carrots with fennel, coriander and black pepper, buttered tenderstem broccoli with parmesan and toasted almond slivers, and an oven-baked Yorkshire pudding. More than enough to leave you fit to burst.
MUST TRY DISHES?
Skipping the core menu with a vow to return, we settled on two of the roasts — the Braised Rolled Lamb Shoulder, and the Tandoor Roasted Chicken.
Juicy and hefty, the lamb shoulder, slow-cooked, is served up with a deep and dark mace and rose sauce that laughs at a traditional gravy. There was a rich fatty edge that was delicious (even if a little longer on the char would have suited us better), and honestly, enough meat to feed a small family.
But it was the Tandoor Roasted Chicken that left us smitten — beautifully cooked with a slight crisp finish, its tomato and fenugreek sauce (essentially a makhani butter chicken sauce) was the perfect pairing for the veg. Creamy with a slight sweetness to temper the heat, a dunk of a spud in that would put Bisto to bed for good.
All the sides were present and correct too — fluffy taters, tenderstem broccoli charred with a bite, sweet parsnips and carrots and an excellent, giant Yorkshire pudding. Those carb-heavy accompaniments are great for mopping up the delicious curry sauces too — you’ll be wishing every curry house offers a yorkie alongside its naan breads in the future.
A special shoutout goes to The Great Indian’s fluffy Smoked Poppadom (£5.50) snack starters too — crisp and airy, they’re paired with an absolutely gorgeous Tiranga chutney, crafted into three distinctly tasty layers: mint-lime, sesame yoghurt and tomato-date. Don’t miss them on any account.
If there’s somehow still room left, don’t skip on dessert, either. The Baked Berry Doi (£7.50), with its yoghurt, blueberry and biscuit crumb mix is a creamy delight that feels like a healthy breakfast turned naughty, while the Jamun Sunday (£7.50) with its Gulab Jamun, chantilly cream, vanilla ice cream and butterscotch finish is an affront to your calorie count, and a decadent salve to cool down with after the curry.
WHAT SHOULD YOU DRINK?
You can’t have a curry without a pint of Cobra, so that’s what we opted for on our visit, but The Great Indian does boast a slick wine list and a clever cocktail menu, too, with each £12.50 drink giving an Indian twist on a classic.
The Imli Margarita (Tequila, Homemade Tamarind and Chili Reduction) and Espresso Maharaja (Orange & Cardamon Infused Vodka, Chocolate Liquor & Espresso) both came recommended, as did the signature Great Indian (Curry Leaves, Kafir Lime Infused Vodka & Solassa Liquor).
GET ON THE GUESTLIST?
If you think you’ve seen all a Sunday roast can offer, think again and get booking The Great Indian. A hidden gem, it’s a roast with a difference, kicking the traditional week-ender in a new direction. Plus, if your crew just can’t face another spud, there’s that classic menu to dive into, too.
The Great Indian can be found at 139 Marlborough Rd, London N19 4NU, with bookings available via Sevenrooms.
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