Your running shoes are secretly toxic – how a new exhibition in London is working to change that

Sportswear is everywhere. Not just in gyms or on the backs of the running clubs taking over the city streets after work and at weekends. If you care about what you throw on to work up a sweat, an exhibition that’s just opened in London might just make you care a bit more about how it’s being made.

Performance without Toxicity is being hosted at the Fabrica X innovation gallery, which is just a few minutes walk (or an even quicker run) from Kings Cross station. It’s presented by The Mills Fabrica, a workspace hub dedicated to bringing together likeminded folk that care about creating and investing in sustainable innovations.

Running over the next five months, the exhibition showcases the technologies and solutions that can go into — and is already going into — making everything from hiking boots, padel rackets and wetsuits healthier for you and the planet. It’s all about keeping toxic petroleum-based materials out of your wardrobe and away from your body, which can only be a good thing.

“At The Mills Fabrica, a key part of our mission is to shine a light on the industry players that are taking the more responsible path, " says Amy Tsang, Head of Europe at The Mills Fabrica.

“Whether that’s at the design stage, production of a garment’s end-of-life.

"For performance wear, it’s becoming a part of our daily lives — and is no longer only worn for working out at the gym. This increased popularity of performance apparel and accessories makes it even more crucial that these products are made in ways that protect both people and the planet.”

A global effort

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This is The Mills Fabrica’s largest exhibition yet, with 37 exhibitors included from all across the globe as well those that are much closer to home. That includes more established names like Vivobarefoot, best known for its minimalist footwear, and running shoe brand Allbirds. You’ll also discover names you’ll hopefully become more familiar with in the not too distant future.

Like Goldwin, a Japanese performance brand and lead innovation partner for the exhibition that’s also launching its first UK flagship store in Soho this month. You can take a closer look at a jacket built for outdoor adventures that’s been created using a pattern system called SYN-GRID. This uses 3D technology and machine learning to reduce fabric waste during manufacturing.

Circle Sportswear, is a French running apparel brand that’s already launched a running shoe made from bio-based materials like castor beans and wood pulp. Cornwall-based outdoor brand Finisterre is showing off a wetsuit that uses rubber from forests to reduce the reliance on the neoprene mainly used in wetsuits. Football fans can also wonder what it could be like to lace up a boot made from non-toxic graphene. That’s been demonstrated through a pilot project from London-based startup Nanoloom.

Hyosung TNC is a global leader in elastane production. That’s a fibre found in clothing like leggings and compression wear. It’s now developed a bio-based elastane that uses sugar cane to reduce the carbon footprint for brands that want to add some stretch to their performance garments. Amphico is a startup that’s already produced PFAS-free waterproof breathable membranes and waterless colours for fabrics that can be incorporated into jackets. That’s all while reducing toxic chemicals and water usage compared to other textiles used in performance gear.

"Progress over perfection"

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“The size of this exhibition reflects the wave of innovation happening right now in performance apparel, " says Tsang.

“This demonstrates the huge potential for the industry to do better. It’s about highlighting progress over perfection and demonstrating that now is the time for brands to act if we want to protect the future of our planet.”

You’re free to get a feel of most of the gear on show, with each clearly labelled to indicate the stage of development. Whether they’re still at the early startup or research project stage or already being put to good use. You'll also find out if garments have compostable qualities or include additional features like moisture-wicking for added comfort or staying dry when you start to sweat.

“I hope people will leave the exhibition feeling inspired and motivated to take action,” says Tsang.

“We want to show that these innovations and technologies aren’t some distant future. They’re happening today and there’s much more on the horizon.”

The Performance without Toxicity exhibition is open now and runs until the 29th June 2026. It’s free to pop in, with a spot to grab a coffee, and a concept store so you can even walk away with some more toxic-free performance wear or pick up a book to learn more about the work explored.

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