ShortList’s style director, Adrian Clark, reports from the frontline of the European menswear collections
DAY 3: GIVENCHY’S INTOXICATING TRIBAL-TECHNO GEEK TRIUMPH
Riccardo Tisci is one of the most influential designers of our times. Respected by style dictators and closely watched by high-street imitators alike, the signature prints he scatters as punctuation throughout his collections for the house of Givenchy (past season’s have included religious icons and savage rottweiler dogs) have earned season-defining status. It therefore goes without saying that when Tisci delivers a collection almost entirely made up of printed looks – head to toe – as he did this weekend previewing his line for spring 2014 during Paris Fashion Week, that it is almost assuredly destined for ‘sell-through’ success, as well as providing manna from heaven for his chain-store mimics. Taking an elaborate, decorative and eclectic journey from the West Coast of America to Africa, using L.A skaters, techno geeks (into 1970’s computers and loudspeakers) through to tribal African Ethnography as his inspiration for the afore mentioned printed fabrics, Tisci’s silhouettes were sporty yet sophisticated, layered, intricate and chaotic, but with a sense of freedom. Computerized motifs gave a dynamic and graphic edge to prints, merged with an influence of Masaï and Zulu iconography. Bold stripes animated the garments while targets and go-carts added further visual 3-D effects. Placed to wrap around the body or worked in patchwork, each print revealed elaborate compositions. Intricate fronted shirts and athletic t-shirts with cut-outs also injected a sense of geometry. Oversized shirts, polos, parkas (often tied around the waist, pleated bermudas and leggings alternated with fitted tailoring. Classic cotton fabrics such as poplin, jersey, gabardine and piqué contrasted with thick nylon, silk organza or georgette, printed leather, satin and nylon knitted mesh. Neo-tuxedo pants in plain or printed cotton poplin were layered with silk georgette demonstrating masterful construction. A stellar performance, one that played to both his own strengths and his audience, from a designer in peak condition.
GROOING FIX: PAUL SMITH
Giving some contradictory edge and to toughen-up Paul Smith’s big softy ‘pretty in pink’ collection, shown on the closing day of Paris Fashion Week, the designer opted for a rock ‘n’ roll “haven’t- been-to-bed” look for the hair that had form but also a sense of rebellious anarchy about it. To achieve the look your self, we recommend styling with L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Dirty Clean Texturising Paste: £3.56 for 75ml. This non-sticky paste is blended with beeswax and fixing polymers, providing a rough textured effect for that morning after look. In contrast to the up-all-night hair, rejuvenate your skin with L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Vita Lift 5 Complete Revitalising Moisturiser: £13.06 for 50ml, an innovative, ultra moisturising formula enriched with anti-ageing actives, Pro-Retinol, Ginseng and Allantoin that combine together to help skin appear firmer and full of vitality. Allantoin soothes, reduces irritation and hydrates fragile skin for up to 25 hours.
L’Oreal Paris 0800 0304 0302
DAY 2: LOUIS VUITTON TAKES AN AMERICAN ROAD TRIP
“The collection is really about the freedom of the road and that freedom itself being luxurious” commented Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Studio and Style Director, following a stellar presentation on the second day of Paris Fashion Week. “The clothing should have that do-what-you-want attitude. It’s a road trip drawing on elements of classic American culture from clothes, music to souvenirs. It’s a changing environment from city, to forest, to desert” he clarified. The collection, one of the most commercially sound under his guidance to date, encompassed a notion of chic eclecticism. Building from a contemporary take on sixties varsity preppy, taking in the free-ranging spirit of the outdoorsman, nodding to counter-culture credo and finally culminating in the sophisticated formality of prom tux dressing. Check on check on check was the key message… layered in summer weight suits, polo shirts, shirts and neckerchiefs. Tan leather biker jackets, trucker jackets in Marlboro red and parkas in washed out utilitarian khaki featured “Vuitton’ varsity badges. ‘LV’ Bandana prints, prom suits in pastel colours and oversized bags were also amongst the collections many highlights. What Kim Jones has understood is that what men really want are everyday clothes that have some reference they are familiar with or can buy into, but in luxurious fabrics and with a refinement of the fit. Long may that reign!
GROOING FIX: 3.1 PHILIP LIM
At 3.1 Philip Lim, the hair was kept neat, sweeping to one side in layers that were weighed down with hi-shine product finishing with a spiked fringe. To get the look we recommend using L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Indestructible Sculpting Wax; £3.56 for 150ml, ideal for adding definition to short or medium length hair and enabling strong and long-lasting hold with elastic resistance. To give an energized look to the skin, try L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Hydra Energetic Turbo Booster; £14.29 for 50ml. The unique formulation (contains Vitamin C) takes the original Hydra Energetic concept of fighting the signs of fatigue for a healthier look even further by delivering an instant boost of radiance to the skin.
L’Oreal Paris 0800 0304 0302
DAY 1: VALENTINO’S REVISION OF THE CLASSICS
From the on-point cut of the suits to its functional approach to sportswear, Valentino, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Perpaolo Piccioli has earned its position as the embodiment of contemporary and desirable menswear for our generation. Equally at home crafting scalpel-sharp tailoring with an edge as they are forging an alliance between innovation, performance and style in their interpretation of casual, the collection shown yesterday, on the opening day of Paris Fashion Week, was one of their most considered to date. For spring 2014 expect to find the Valentino man revisiting the classics, but on his own ‘outside of the box’ terms. Always luxurious but never overstated, denim was used for slim-fit tailoring in bands of graduating shades of indigo dye, blanket stripes used to border khaki military pea coats, and traditional toile de Jouy or floraflage (a botanical spin on camouflage) prints decorating technical fabrics for trousers or bomber jackets worn with crisp white cotton t-shirts. Even something as simple as an everyday flip-flop was turned on its head, made in crocodile: a collaborative project with Havaianas. Its no mean feet to take iconic menswear staples and breathe new life into them, Valentino has however mastered the art of wardrobe resuscitation.
GROOING FIX: RAF SIMONS
Clean cut but far from preppy, Raf Simons opted for hair that had little structure and an out-of-bed unkempt texture. Boyish in feel, but with an edge, to compliment the look he sent out fresh-faced, closely shaved models.To achieve this look we recommend using L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Out of Bed Fibre Cream-Gel; £3.56 for 150ml. A malleable product with a workable texture, great for creating a messy "out of bed" look. Ideal for short or medium hair it leaves it looked casual and defined. To aid a close shave try L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Sensitive Shave Gel; £4.07 for 150ml. Enriched with Hydrating Glycerin the new Skin Protect System contained within the foam and gels helps to improve razor glide and reduce friction.
L’Oreal Paris 0800 0304 0302