J. Sheekey turns 130 with a throwback menu celebrating London seafood classics

Some restaurants chase trends. Others sit back, do their thing, and quietly become a cornerstone of the city. J. Sheekey falls firmly into the second camp, and at 130 years old, it’s earned the right to be a bit reflective.

To mark the anniversary, the Covent Garden staple is rolling out a run of historic dishes pulled from across its long, very well-fed history. Not reimagined, not “inspired by”, simply replicated as they were. When you go 130 years back, it's less about nostalgia and more of a culinary history tour.

The menu brings back the plates that feel baked into London’s food DNA. Potted shrimp is the headline throwback, an old-school dish that dates back to Tudor preservation methods alongside smoked eel salad, which taps into the city’s long-standing relationship with its waterways. Although it sounds niche, eels used to play a big part in any Londoner's diet, so for the old school, it will be a welcome tribute.

There’s a bit more comfort in there, too. A Cornish fish stew nods to the restaurant’s ties with British fishing communities, while the lobster thermidor leans fully into that theatreland energy Sheekey’s built its name on. It's rich, classic, and just the right side of indulgent for a post-show dinner that turns into a long one.

Running the kitchen is Andy McLay, who’s been there over 20 years and clearly knows better than to mess with a formula that’s worked for more than a century. The approach here is simple: keep it tight, keep it familiar, and make sure it still hits.

Sheekey’s has never really been about chasing the next big thing. It’s more focused on consistency, atmosphere, and that slightly old-school London charm that’s constantly evolving. Over the years, it’s hosted everyone from Judi Dench to Kylie Minogue, all passing through for oysters, fish pie, or something a bit celebratory before or after a show.

There’s more planned across the year, including collaborations, events, and the usual anniversary lap, but the main draw is a chance to eat the dishes that built the place in the first place.

In a city obsessed with what’s new, Sheekey’s quietly reminding everyone why it’s lasted this long.

J. Sheekey can be found at 28-32 St Martin's Court, WC2N 4AL

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