Jonathan Saunders' stellar collection had a more relaxed and unbuttoned feel to previous seasons, such as a blazer with a hoodie underneath. This was a casual, more sportswear oriented in approach. The Scottish designer used natural colours for this collection – Saunders told me he wasn’t a big fan of brown and khaki so challenged himself by “making myself like them” and integrated them into the range alongside highlights of field and moss green, turquoise, raspberry and burnt orange, in Jacquard weaves and mohair.
Saunders also cited Olafur Eliasson, a Danish-Icelandic artist and design firm known for sculptures and large-scale installation art and Sir Anthony Alfred Caro, an English abstract sculptor who uses found industrial objects, as inspiration behind Saunders latest realisation abstract prints.
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen brought some international big-guns flavour to the three-day long schedule of events with her first ever mainline menswear collection in London. Taking a subversive view of Savile Row (home to her first standalone menswear store) as inspiration, the collection did not disappoint on any level. Longer line jackets were featured, with Burton’s signature pagoda shoulder-line in pinstripe worn with white shirts featuring pinstripe contrast elongated collars and cuffs. Military-inspired ceremonial coats and trousers in scarlet, black and off-white, as well as wool and patchwork velvet jackets in blood red were highlights of a collection that paid homage to the tailoring traditions of British style.
The final highlight of the day was the James Long show. When talking about his collection, James Long said: “it's about taking my signatures and doing them in a new way with a new casual atmosphere”. Inspired by provocative film director John Waters and his merry band of contentious characters, one blouson featured a pink flamingo embroidered on a knit while Divine herself appeared embroidered on a hoodie and as one of the designer’s signature ‘oversized’ sweaters.
(Images: Rex Features)