ShortList's style director, Adrian Clark, gives you the lowdown on the must-know key trends from the autumn/winter '16 London Milan and Paris runways.
In association with L’Oreal Paris
The big mountains and the great plains of the States inspired designers to look towards Native American Indian clans, such as the Navajo, for tribal prints, blanket capes (as seen here by Valentino), and beaded denim.
Oversized checks were a reoccurring trend, with tartan, windowpane, lumberjack (as seen here by Burberry) and workwear-inspired plaids at the forefront, influenced by the overall move towards more masculine stereotypes.
A graduate from Central Saint Martins, Charles Jeffrey resourcefully helped fund the passage through his MA course by running a dress-up nightlife fixture in Dalston called LOVERBOY. His debut collection of misfit knits and experimental tailoring as part of the MAN collective (seen here) has put him firmly on the fashion landscape, paving the way for (we predict) the same kind of influence as designers such as Westwood and Galliano.
Part homage to the great David Bowie legacy and part nod towards the 1970’s mood that swept the collections in Milan (seen here at Gucci), expect statement suits with a gentle flare in the trouser, open neck silk shirts, polo necks and loafers.
Having gone through the gamut of minimalist sports/luxe-inspired styles that have dominated in menswear for the past few seasons, ‘maximism’ is the new buzzword. Think artisan craftsmanship, such as embroidery (shown here by Dries van Noten), beading and adding 3-D interest to print and pattern.
Few trends transcended all three fashion capitals with as much gusto as the new model army of boys who have out-grown their hair, chopping it into unkempt layers. Kinda 90’s Britpop in feel, the only hairstyle to have on top (seen here at Pringle of Scotland) is the skater boy style with heavy fringe. To achieve the messy texture yourself, we recommend using L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Matt & Messy Shine-free salt spray for the tousled look.
Having taken years to convince men to go tighter, tighter, even tighter and then shorter, it’s a 360-degree turnaround as designers have elected in their droves to champion the wider leg and looser pant. More flattering on a taller man, and worn best with something closer fitting up top (as shown here by Dior Homme), while it may take a bit of time to get used to, it does offer a very sophisticated silhouette.
The inescapable throwback to psychedelic music in the charts (Tame Impala and Wavves, for example) is having its influence on the fashion circuit too. Trippy ‘Woodstock’ inspired prints (as shown here by Dries van Noten) will have a major impact from the catwalk through to the sidewalk.
Having spent a while off the boil, Roberto Cavalli (seen here) is back on the scene, cleverly reworked by new creative director Peter Dundas. The ex-Pucci designer showed his first collection for men in Milan, giving it a renewed lease of life and relevance. In fact, it was one of our favourite collections. Expect 70’s-style denim and velvet, underpinned with romantic flourishes.
The new silhouette for men is ‘roomy’. Layers of oversized coats (seen here at Lou Dalton) and peasant shirts, Oxford bag trousers and knits with sleeves that finish past the fingertips will be key, forcing fitted and tailored silhouettes to take a back seat in the wardrobe for the coming autumn.
With thanks to Mercedes-Benz