Style director Adrian Clark reports back on the second day of the Paris catwalk collections.
Viktor & Rolf’s Monsieur line was very refined, kick-starting the fifth day of the collections in Paris yesterday. Showing quilted jackets in shades of wet sand with fur collars, oversized double-breasted coats that buttoned across at the neck, fur-trimmed, hooded parkas, padded leather blousons in gunmetal worn over suits and leather dungarees worn with tailoring. For evening wear, shawl collar tuxedo jackets in garnet coloured brocades made for one of the most sophisticated V&R collections to date.
Kim Jones proved why his recent accolade of Menswear Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards was justified by showing a stellar collection for Louis Vuitton (picture 3). It is hard to believe that this is only his second stab at grasping the Vuitton DNA, as it seemed effortless, as if he had been involved with the label for years (without the tired or jaded bit).
The show opened with a double-breasted, peak lapel camel coat, tightly belted at the waist, worn with caramel trousers. Tailoring featured contrast sleeves, chunky knits played with the Damier check and ‘V’ signature patterns in stitches and cardigan coats, swathed in scarves came in traditional Vuitton patterning – in shades of amber or plum. Reflective jackets and parkas and silk kimono pyjamas in shades of rich ink were among my personal favourite highlights.
Jean Paul Gaultier (picture 2) served up a very restrained collection that played to his strengths as a great tailor, but with plenty of signature whimsical twists. Trompe l’oeil brick wall prints were used to update jeans, featuring a wider leg style with oversized turn-ups. Tuxedos, worn with fedora hats, were reworked to give them a daywear feel, topped by trench coats in hi-shine synthetic fabrics. Tattoo prints breathed life into classic white shirts, while shaved furs in army camouflage pattern were used for casual blousons. A masterful mix of very formal with utility style basics, executed wonderfully.
The day finished in style with Belgian designer Dries Van Noten (picture 1) delivering another jaw-dropping take on this season’s key trends. Coats, blazers and trousers in painterly prints, black cashmere double-breasted suits that featured trousers draped in volumes of fabric, plus military coats and fitted cable knits in stripes of raspberry hues, all made for one of the most covetable collections shown to date for the coming fall season.
ShortList's style director Adrian Clark, explains how you can achieve the top right look from the Autumn Winter 2012 show:
Alexis Mabile chose a very polished look to accompany his runway presentation for men yesterday. Having founded his reputation in women’s couture, the look was characteristically very precise and controlled, the perfect partner to his collection of strict military inspired tailoring. To capture this well-groomed look use a balm in place of your usual daily moisturiser, which will give the sheen to the skin that was adopted by all of Mabile’s models, we recommend using L’Oreal Paris Men Expert 24 HR Hydrating Post Shave Balm £6.12 for 100ml, a non greasy formula with an ultra fresh sensation that will leave skin glowing and hydrated all day long. For the sharp and sculpted hair, comb into a side parting while still damp using L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Pure Wet – Wet Effect Gel £3.56 for 150ml which will offer up to 12 hours of fresh and clean wet-look style without the greasy residue.