ShortList's style director Adrian Clark has arrived in Paris for the catwalk collections. Here, he gives us his thoughts on the first day.
The opening day got off to a slow start with Mugler, designed by Romain Kremer and under the creative direction of Nicola Formichetti (Lady Gaga's stylist), being the only headline grabbing show. But even with all of Formichetti’s creative credentials, the autumn collection was dry of ideas and focus. Unlike in previous collections, which have lacked finesse yet have shown flights of fantasy at least, this presentation verged on the dull and boring.
A tailored silhouette took its inspiration from the strict formality of Marine uniforms (picture 3). This theme could be seen in the sharply cut suits, zip-up blousons, knee-skimming architectural waistcoats and A-line capes in Lurex, rubberised cottons and jacquard fabrics, in shades of dark plum, navy and black. Where it fell short was that it was neither imaginative enough to venture into uncharted territory, nor was it well finished and formed enough to make it a standout collection of masterful tailoring.
Christian Lacroix (picture 2), now in its third season under the creative direction of designer Sacha Walckhoff, was an improvement on last season, mixing preppy commercial style with some moments of real splendour. Check-on-check combinations in shades of cherry red for shirts with cropped jackets that featured hoods and duffle coat toggle fastenings and optical prints on sportswear, were amongst its many highlights.
John Lawrence Sullivan (picture 1), designed by Japanese ex-professional boxer, Arashi Yanagawa, was very powerful in its message for silhouette. Blouson jackets were cut tight to the body but with pronounced and horizontal shoulder lines, while trousers were fluid and very wide in the leg. Using a colour palette of sea foam blues and bronze, with highlights of purple, this was one of the most focused shows Yanagawa has unveiled to date.
ShortList's style director Adrian Clark, explains how you can achieve this look from the Christian Lacroix Autumn Winter 2012 show:
Sacha Walckhoff for Christian Lacroix adopted the grooming direction of a youthful and slightly undone preppy style at the close of the first day of shows in French capital. Clean and closely shaved skin with hair that was essentially formal, but with a messed-up textured twist added a young spirit to the collection. To achieve the look use a shave prep that will leave your skin settled but will offer the ultimate close shave, we recommend L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Sensitive Shave Gel £4.07 for 200ml that aids against drying out of the skin, leaving it hydrated and soothed. To get the preppy side parting that was shown, blow dry and tease into place using L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Remix Texturising Styling Paste £3.56 for 75ml, that will add a textured finish that won't harden and can be reworked throughout the day.