Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation
Top

2012 Catwalk Report: Day 1

hero_fashionmilan_1.jpg

ShortList’s style director Adrian Clark and fashion stylist Barnaby Ash report back on the latest trends in fashion and grooming on the opening weekend of Milan fashion week for Autumn/ Winter 2012

Ermenegildo Zegna tapped into the trend for texture on Saturday with a show that took power broker styling into a new comfort zone. Heavy bouclé and knit for tailoring was worn with denim shirts, knitted ties and shearling coats. A muted autumnal colour palette with a feel good factor switched Zegna’s attention from city to the countryside, without detracting from its usual sartorial splendour.

Over at Jil Sander (picture 3), designer Raf Simons showcased severe silhouettes with belted long-line trenches in high-shine black leather. Fitted business suits were worn with leather gloves and accessories came in the form of luxury leather bags that looked like crumpled paper.

At Dolce & Gabbana, tailoring techniques were explored in tonal shades of charcoal and ash with an emphasis placed back on the suit, allowing flights of fantasy to emerge through rich and decadent Baroque embroidery in gold thread. Napoleonic, sweeping coats and thermal rib underwear also peppered the collection that, while verging on the classic, was by no means a shrinking violet.

Roberto Cavalli fused biker leathers with Italian artisan techniques in knit and exotic skins. Bottega Veneta decorated its tailoring with splashes of hi-gloss colour, worn with metallic silver shirts, while Emporio Armani was more playful, showing chenille knits and textured coats.

Burberry Prorsum (picture 1) was typically British with a 1960s take on town and country styling. Tweed double-breasted coats were shaped to the body, shooting jackets came in quilted suede and knits featured fox face emblems, which were all the right side of quirky English eccentric and proved to be one of the highlight, stand-out collections shown in the Italian style capital.

However, Prada (picture 2) showed it was still at the top of its game with elegant double-breasted tailoring and coats that had an almost regal and Edwardian sobriety, choosing a stellar cast of A-list actors, such as Tim Roth, Gary Oldman, Willem Dafoe and Jamie Bell as models. The weekend closed with Calvin Klein presenting an update on its oversized sports luxe signature, this time using crocodile for sweatshirts and cashmere for jogging pants.

Adrian Clark, explains how you can achieve this look from the Roberto Cavalli Autumn Winter 2012 show:

As far as grooming was concerned, two big messages rang loud and clear: the return of the moustache and loose ‘undone’ hair that had volume and structure, epitomised by Roberto Cavalli. To achieve Cavalli’s look (picture 4) with matte skin and swept back hair that had volume and hold, try L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Indestructible Sculpting Wax £3.56 for 75ml, L’Oreal’s first wax for an extreme hold with elastic resistance and L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Pure & Matte Moisturising Gel £9.18 for 50ml, which will offer the right level of shine control to achieve matte skin, non-greasy, non-sticky and quickly absorbed into the skin’s surface.

L’Oreal Paris 0800-030 4032

Related

50things_hero.jpg

50 things you must know about grooming

hero_styledps207.jpg

Team ups

Comments

More

adidas released Steve Zissou's shoes from The Life Aquatic

"Please don't make fun of me. I just wanted to flirt with you."

by Sam Diss
27 Jun 2017

Nike's new 'Pale Grey' Air Max 95 is its best yet

Get your Crep Protect order in

by Sam Diss
27 Jun 2017

LANVIN channels messy cool with cracking new collection

Time to perfect the art of not giving a shit

by Sam Diss
26 Jun 2017

How to pick sunglasses to suit your face shape

Some shapes just look better than others, and here's why...

by Will Grice
23 Jun 2017

Ralph Lauren Purple Label's new suiting collection is incredible

The Polo boys are back to reassert their claim as the kings of suiting

by Sam Diss
21 Jun 2017

Italian designer Fendi is the new king of jackets and coats

We know it's warm, but it's time to start planning for winter

by Sam Diss
21 Jun 2017

How to wear shorts and not look like an idiot

There are rules, but it's not as hard as you think...

by Sam Diss
19 Jun 2017

adidas collab with Shoe Surgeon on beautiful/expensive astros

Here's what £543 will get you for your next kickabout

by Sam Diss
19 Jun 2017

M.C. Overalls release killer jacket collab with beer bros Beavertown

Get the bloody beers in

by Sam Diss
19 Jun 2017

The 15 best summer suits for under £400

You know that wedding you're dreading? We've got you sorted

by Will Grice
16 Jun 2017