Style director Adrian Clark gives his verdict on the second day of the Paris collections
With the emerging markets in South East Asia growing ever more hungry for luxury goods, designers showing on the second day of Paris fashion looked towards the East for inspiration to influence their autumn 2013 presentations and runway shows.
Olivier Rousteing, designing for Balmain (picture far left), pursued a new silhouette, combining traditional Oriental cuts with Western tailoring and sportswear. The result? A chic Asian fusion that featured a seamless blend of loose and svelte with elements of martial arts, ceremonial dress and David Bowie’s China Girl. The colour palette, dominated by black was highlighted with shades of old Bordeaux reds, teal blue and warm browns, while jacket and coat buttons were often discarded in favour of kimono cross over lapels cinched with an extra wide Obi belt in Asian geometric quilted leather or basket weave canvas.
Kim Jones knocked it out of the park (again) taking us on both a metaphorical trip up the Himalayas, specifically to the kingdom of Bhuta in his latest collection for Louis Vuitton (picture right of centre). Apparently Bhuta is the only place on earth where snow leopards and tigers cross paths and Jones’ interpretation of that phenomenon was to realise suits in a subtle snow leopard pattern, using an innovative needle punch technique that incorporates natural coloured mink and cashmere. The outerwear was very strong, featuring parkas and padded down blousons in shearling, exotic furs and leathers. A hiking boot in crocodile (something Jones has done before when he headed up the design studio at Dunhill) and an oriental print collaborated on with artists Jake and Dinos Chapman – inspired by Diana Vreeland’s Garden Of Hell – were personal favourites.
Dries (picture left of centre) concluded day two with a very relaxed collection that was rich with bohemian references. Fringed knits in spice tones, paisley pyjamas in silk, crystal scattered flesh coloured sheer shirts or bouclé knits and leather pants with gold studding, made for one of the designer’s strongest collections to date. Wool coats with oversized paisley prints, belted satin coats in saffron yellow and oversized boxy blazers gave Dries a new sense of cool that felt more chilled and at ease with itself without foregoing his signature attention to detail, silhouette and proportion.
At Dries Van Noten the look was natural and softly swept back off the face (picture far right), to achieve this style we recommend using L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Mineral Control Invisi Gel (Normal) £3.56 (RRP) for 150ml; stockists 0800-0304 032, the first styling gel from L’Oréal Paris to contain mineral derived ingredients to care for the hair. For versatile styling you can’t see, this invisible, multipurpose and medium strength gel will hold the style in place.
For the healthy sun-kissed glow that fits with Dries’ bohemian styling, try L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Hydra Energetic X-Treme Healthy Look Moisturiser £9.99 (RRP) for 50ml; stockists 0800-0304 032, giving an instant subtle glow with no “orange tone” effect. Thanks to Sun-Gel Technology™, the dark translucent gel melts instantly into the skin for an ultra-natural result.
Apply two pumps of the tinted gel on clean skin. It reacts with the skin for a natural-looking colour, and boosts the skin’s moisture levels for optimum hydration. The texture of the moisturiser has been specifically created for men - it is fluid, non-greasy, and is easily absorbed by the skin, avoiding streaks even with a 5 o’clock shadow. The formula also contains Active Defense System (ADSTM), a powerful soothing, active ingredient and the foundation of the Men Expert range, designed to help reinforce the skin’s resistance to prevent irritation and soothe.