ShortList’s style director, Adrian Clark and stylist Barnaby Ash report from the frontline of the European menswear collections
DAY 3: DSQUARED2’S TROPICAL HEAT WAVE
Canadian design duo DSquared2 kicked off the last day of Milan menswear with a stunning & entertaining show, the curtains opened to reveal the epic scene of a plane crash in a rainforest; a clever excuse to showcase the meeting point between American classics & tribal print, leather bikers were worn with khaki military style trousers and ethnic mask print tees layered with beaded necklaces, wide-brim straw hats were shown alongside swimwear, whilst the collection was subtly interspersed with unstructured tailored separates. The collection suggested that Dean & Dan have really found their aesthetic stride without compromising on the brands cheeky & fun approach to menswear.
GROOING FIX: Z ZEGNA
At Z Zegna - the more fashion forward and progressive offering from the sartorial house of Ermenegildo Zegna – the hair (featuring a fringe over one side of the brow) was given fly-away, tousled, dry texture, offset with matte but fresh looking skin. To achieve the look, try using: L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Matt & Messy Shine-Free Spray, £3.56 for 150ml. On an on-trend matt effect with no greasiness, this light-weight formula can be used to add volume and definition to any summer hair style. For skin, use: L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Pure & Matte Anti-Shine Moisturising Gel; £9.18 for 50ml. This ultra-light non-greasy gel effectively tackles shine thanks to anti-sebum complexes, made up of silica particles known for their ability to absorb excess sebum. These mattifying particles work to control shine and deliver a matte effect whilst providing a long-lasting anti-shine action. Skin is immediately mattified and remains pure, clear and healthy-looking all day long.
L’Oreal Paris 0800 0304 0302
Day Two: Gucci’s luxury spin on high-tech sport
Frida Giannini’s offering for Spring summer 2014 was a refreshing move forward from the collections of the past few seasons, introducing sportswear into the mix in the form of technical outerwear & tailoring cut from stretch jersey & nylon cottons while blending it with a seductive concoction of mismatched floral print across the entire collection. Advancing the Gucci aesthetic without compromising or ignoring the brands iconic heritage, the show stood out, much like Prada’s as one that was highly desirable, and easily wearable without compromising on producing a creative and inspiring show. After wave upon wave of collections that seem to no longer consider the fact that clothes are intended to complement the wearer, it’s reassuring to see at least some designers have not lost sight of this goal.
Grooming Fix: Diesel Black Gold
Wet look, industrial and scraped back was the message at Diesel Black Gold, opting for hair styling that had hi-shine and texture and offsetting it with sun-kissed skin. To achieve the look we recommend applying a strong fix styling product to wet hair, such as L'Oreal Paris Studio Line Indestructible Extreme Gel: £3.56 for 75ml. Enriched with pro-vitamin B5, the indestructible formula gives extreme hold with elastic resistance. Comb through the hair with fingers to mirror the contemporary feel from the show. For the healthy-look glow to your skin, use L'Oreal Paris Men Expert Hydra Energetic X-Treme Healthy Look Moisturiser: £9.99 for 50ml. Apply 2 pumps of the tinted gel on clean skin. It reacts with the skin for a natural-looking colour, and boosts the skin’s moisture levels for optimum hydration L’Oreal Paris 0800-0304 0302
Day 1: Prada’s Menacing Paradise
The first weekend of Milan has not been the most forthcoming with regard to inspirational menswear but Miuccia Prada was having none of it, her latest incarnation of spring summer menswear was a darkly exotic take on the tropical paradises that have been rendered war zones in recent history. The set entitled ‘Menacing Paradise’ featured palm fronds & sunsets but also with a helicopter on the walls & the beat of copter rotors on the soundtrack to give it a darker unsettling edge. The collection featured stunning Hawaiian prints across shirts, knits & accessories strewn amongst neutral tailoring with an oversized leg. Simply put the collection was one of the most handsome and desirable collections shown, not only this season, but throughout menswear as a whole.
Grooming Fix: Bottega Veneta
Legendary hairdresser Guido Palau, created hair that was contemporary, elegant and precise to compliment Tomas Maier’s spring 2014 collection of contrasts for the house of Bottega Veneta yesterday. Keeping the clean-cut side parting that dominated last season, Palau worked with volume and malleable styling product to achieve a look that was more swept back than slicked back, with height and hold but a loose and healthy texture. Skin was hydrated and porcelain perfect. To achieve the look we recommend using L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Architect Shine Wax; £3.56 for 75ml, which provides your style with structure whilst adding shine. The wax glides through hair without leaving any greasiness or residue and washes out easily due to its water based formula. For the face L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Hydra Energetic Quenching Gel: £10 for 50ml, which uses air-gel technology leaving skin hydrated for 24 hours without shine L’Oreal Paris: 0800 0304 0302