ShortList Style Director Adrian Clark on London Collection Men's approach to 2016 and the sort of stuff we should be slipping into in the foreseeable future, albeit in a slightly toned down way. Lace shirts, anyone?
These are the themes and trends that cluttered the walkways of high street to high style designers.
Bright colours with a '90s rave attitude littered the runways. Either used for psychedelic inspired prints, as seen at Coach by Stuart Vevers, or colour-blocked as was shown by Christopher Shannon.
Green, pink, orange and array of other tones usually suited to stationary equipment were the main focus, although some designers made a more commercial statement with washed-out fluro shades, bridging the gap between bright and pastel. Think loud.
Image: Coach by Stuart Vevers
Loose, oversized tailoring signalled a move away from the scalpel sharp Savile Row style of suits that've dominated in London menswear for several seasons.
A more relaxed approach and at its epicentre a jacket/shirt hybrid was the star attraction at shows such as E.Tautz by Patrick Grant and Paul Smith who showed suits specifically crafted for commuter cyclists.
Image: E. Tautz by Patrick Grant
To take trends very literally is a very dated concept, and frankly a little lazy. The more modern approach is to juxtapose themes and influences to create a new language. Clashing cultures, such as West coast surf with Northern Soul at Topman Design or as seen here at Astrid Andersen, the ancient traditions of Japanese artisan craftsmanship with the urban sports edge of Brooklyn basketball.
Image: Astrid Andersen
Inspired by Elaine Constantine’s Brit flick based on the Northern Soul scene in Wigan, high-wasted and wide leg trousers with inverted pleats were one of the biggest talking points of London Collections Men. The discussions were mainly how easy to wear they are.
Our verdict: if worn with sportswear, as shown here by Topman Design, and echoed at E. Tautz by Patrick Grant, they will lead the charge for a backlash to the skinnies that have had more than their fair share of the limelight.
Image: Topman Design
Not to be confused with androgyny, there is a new wave of menswear that borrows from the more feminine side of fashion. Nothing to do with cross-dressing but instead concentrating on the finer the detail in clothes that have usually been reserved for the fairer sex.
Essentially taking manly items and lending a softer centre. Proof in point, the short sleeve shirts and shirt and tie combos worn with slim-cut tailored trousers at Burberry, or the slinky knits at J. W Anderson. Lace shirts, indeed.
(Image: Burberry Prorsum by Christopher Bailey)