Moving on from Milan to Paris, style director Adrian Clark reports back on the latest trends from the French style capital
Designed by Romain Kremer, yet under the direction of Nicola Formichetti (the creative force that powers Lady Gaga’s headline-grabbing style statements), Mugler has become a battle of wills, a conflict from which the label itself is suffering. The opposing ideas, one coming from a designer’s perspective, the other from a stylist’s, with both wanting to stamp their own mark on the line, is sending out a very muddled message. Entitled ‘Brothers Of Arcadia’, Formichetti cited surfers, footballers, porn stars and classical gods as the collection’s inspiration.
Stretch, athletic fabrics for items ranging from swimwear to motor cross-influenced sportswear evoked the feeling of a second skin and formed the basis of the collection with a colour palette of Manga green and lilac. Chiselled models dusted in gold glitter wearing cutaway tailoring, shiny armour, leggings in aquatic sequins and translucent fabrics did little to put Mugler back on the map as a force to be reckoned with. Thierry, the label’s eponymous founder was a master of extremes yet always backed this up with some devilishly sophisticated cutting and elegant use of luxury fabrics, which is what the rebirth of the brand is sadly lacking.
Proving more promising was the menswear line from Sacha Walckhoff, creative director at Christian Lacroix Homme. It’s still early doors for this line and needs a little longer to develop its own signature and point of difference in a saturated menswear market. That said, last night’s show was a competent platform to build from. Its finest moments came in the form of denim pieces, such as a fitted shirt and a tailored jean short that were decorated in tattoo insignia Swarovski crystals and playful floral shirts worn with shrunken, lightweight tailoring.
P&G Grooming Stylist Michael Douglas explains how you can achieve the hairstyle of the day, which was seen on the Mugler Catwalk:
This is another nod towards nu romantic 1980s revival, which we saw at Milan. It’s a feminine, solid, dark and wet look. The long pointy fringe gives a dramatic theatrical feel to this nu-romantic style. Wash hair with Head&Shoulders Cool Menthol shampoo (RRP £2.39 for 250ml) for a good, clean base. Then apply Shockwaves Lightweight Styling Gel (RRP £2.49 for 200ml) to damp hair and comb in to style. When getting a cut, remember that the fringe needs a bit of extra length for this look and the rest of the hair needs to be cut sharp and neat!