ShortList’s Style Director, Adrian Clark, serves up his verdict on the London, Milan and Paris catwalk shows, previewing fashion trends for spring/summer 2016.
In association with L’OREAL PARIS
1. LACE ISN’T ONLY FOR OLD LADIES
Prize the twitching net curtains from your neighbour’s grip, lace and embroidered sheer fabrics made a debut at both Gucci and at Burberry Prorsum, and in the form of suspenders styled with sportswear at DSquared2.
2. Denim can be posh
Shunning their humble beginnings, indigo denim fabrics with luxe finishes were evident at many of the shows across all three capitals – at their finest seen best at McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Lemaire and Valentino Uomo.
3. Suits aren't only for the office
Paul Smith’s London presentation of a new range of suits with added stretch in their fibre content - aimed at the city cycle commuter - was one of the highlights of LCM, it reinforced the trend for designers using extreme sportsmen instead of models, such as BMX cyclists and skateboarders at Jimmy Choo.
4. Surf spray is the new hair wax
Luckily, you have plenty of time before spring 2016 to grow your hair, the trend – in keeping with the soft rock ‘Fleetwood Mac’ inspiration and West Coast surf trends that both littered the runway – for longer locks with a ‘dirty’ texture can best be achieved by using a surf spray. We recommend L’Oreal Studio Line Matt & Messy Salt Spray £3.79 for 150ml; boots.com
5. ITS TIME TO BIN THE SKINNIES
Taking Northern Soul as its starting point, and its signature inverted pleat high-wasted trouser as the core to its collection, Topman Design lead the pack at LCM. Wider leg trousers were without question the unsung heroes across the European schedule of shows, also looking strong at E. Tautz and Raf Simons.
6. MARILYN (STILL) WANTS TO BE LOVED BY YOU
While we know her beauty will be preserved forever, Marilyn Monroe also served as reference for standout print ‘moments’ in a stellar show from Belgian designer Dries van Noten, who showed his collection in Paris.
7. TURNING JAPANESE IS BACK IN VOGUE
Oriental silks, traditional Japanese prints, and kimono cutting for jackets and robes swept the runways, making the East meets West trend one of the most important to buy into for next spring. Our favourite advocates came from Alexander McQueen, Astrid Andersen, Craig Green and Louis Vuitton.
8. YOU SHOULD LET YOUR FEET DO THE TALKING
It’s all about a statement trainer for spring 2016. From Louboutin’s mock python in parrot orange and blue or Choo’s fluro hi-tops, through to Zanotti’s rhinestone sneakers and Bally’s Optical chevron appliques.
9. SAN DIEGO IS THE NEW FASHION CAPITAL
London, Milan, Paris, San Diego?!... the hot reference that had obviously littered all of the designer’s mood boards for spring 2016 was Californian surf culture, (DSquared2, Saint Laurent, Topman Design, etc). To pull the look off the key accessory is a tan, nobody likes a wave chaser. Unless you have two weeks booked in the Carribbean ahead of the collections arriving next Feb, can we recommend a fake tan that actually does look real, L’Oreal Men Expert Hydra Energetic X-Treme Instant Healthy Look Moisturiser, £10.69 for 50ml; boots.com
10. SCI-FI ISN’T JUST FOR GEEKS
Venturing where no man has gone before, the imminent (due for release in December) Star Wars movie has had a major influence on men’s style. Bobby Abley did it best, but Wooyoungmi and Rick Owens both produced other worldly collections.
11. MODELS CAN’T SEE THROUGH FABRIC
Lesson to be learnt: if you are going to put scarves over the faces of the models you send out on your industrially constructed four foot high runway, you are going to have casualties. More than one of the boys in Raf Simons show over shot the end of the runway.
12. YOU WILL NEED A SATIN SOUVENIR JACKET
Satin jackets with contrast sleeves and embroidered motifs on the back (think Gosling in Drive) made a surprise repeat performance across the shows, best at Louis Vuitton, Valentino Uomo and Saint Laurent. Great minds obviously do think alike.
13. THE FROW FAVOURS THE GUCCI LOAFER
Much of the front row audiences were sporting Gucci loafers this season. Showing it’s not ALL about what we see on the runways, the most popular was the new Gucci loafer for autumn, which is backless and lined in fur. They were sold out in the Milan boutique within hours of the fashion pack descending on the city.
14. RJ MITTE IS THE MAN OF THE MOMENT
Star of the Breaking Bad series, RJ Mitte was THE celebrity to have in your front row this season. Eclipsing that, Westwood even sent him down the runway in his modelling debut, wearing a breast printed harness.
15. THE SHORT SLEEVE TROPICAL PRINT SHIRT IS THE EDITOR’S NEW UNIFORM
The winner in the ‘what-all-the-editors-were-wearing’ sweepstake, was the short sleeve silk shirt featuring a Hawaiian, tropical or floral print. More of the finest follow this splendid choice...