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New Trends For Spring

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The season’s most talked about collections, showcased by the winner of ShortList’s model search competition, Charlie Mills

The rising star: Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi

A former Dior, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs designer, Mattiussi is planning to open his first store in Paris later this year for his exclusive label. Now in its third season, AMI features a range of classics tweaked with contemporary details.

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Denim patch pocket blazer £468, navy waffle-knit crew-neck sweater £208, beige knitted long-sleeve polo top £180 and blue chino trousers £160 all by AMI at MATCHES; matchesfashion.com. Belt — stylist’s own

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The rebirth: Jigsaw menswear

Jigsaw has relaunched its menswear collection, its first since 1999. It will be available online and through 18 of its flagship stores with a standalone Jigsaw Menswear shop planned for Spitalfields, London, later this year. The line, focused on simple and modern elegance, is being overseen by design director Frances Walker (previously with Nicole Farhi), who joined the Jigsaw team in February 2011 to lay the foundations for the range.

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Dusky blue coated linen checked mac £257, ecru cotton wool curl trim crew-neck knit £95, amber silk polka-dot narrow scarf £55 and dusky pink cotton Prince of Wales check trousers £115 all by JIGSAW MENSWEAR; jigsaw-online.com. Brown leather shoes with elasticated heel detail £550 by LOUIS VUITTON; 020-7399 4050

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The Reinvention: Louis Vuitton

Fresh from winning Menswear Designer Of The Year at the British Fashion Awards, Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones unveils his first collection for the French luxury house this season with fresh, youthful and preppy takes on sports luxe.

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Navy varsity jacket £1,600, white linen T-shirt with buttoned shoulder detail £390, cream cotton tailored shorts £625 and safari tan leather belt £450 all by LOUIS VUITTON; 020-7399 4050

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The debut: Carven

Having earned a reputable name for himself by turning around the profile of dusty French couture house Carven, Guillaume Henry launches his first collection of men’s ready-to-wear for the label this season. This initial men’s collection was sold to 60 retailers around the world, firmly placing Henry on the ones-to-watch menswear radar.

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Navy pea coat £448 by CARVEN AT MATCHES; matchesfashion.com. Black and navy silk panel cardigan £210, black and navy slim silk tie scarf £105 and light grey brushed cotton tailored trousers £200 all by CARVEN at BROWNS; brownsfashion.com

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The best-kept secret: Beams Plus

Yo Shitara founded Beams in Tokyo, 1976, with heritage Americana at the core of its business. In 1999 the firm launched an own-brand collection called Beams Plus, and its spring ‘Hipster’ range debuts at Mrporter.com. Expect comfortable and manly separates inspired by New York’s ‘Beat’ movement of the Fifties.

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Red ‘Casco Bay’ bomber jacket £295, navy dotted cotton-twill waistcoat £165, short-sleeve Madras checked shirt £130 and cotton-twill chinos £140 all by BEAMS PLUS; mrporter.com. Off-white ‘Jack Purcell Johnny Ox’ lo-top sneakers £50 by CONVERSE; size.co.uk

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