Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation
Top

Paris Fashion Week: Day 1

hero_milan_day4.jpg

ShortList's style director Adrian Clark reports back on the first day of the shows in the French capital

The pending triple-dip recession has influenced designers to consider the workplace as a new focus for their creativity. A challenging task as the boardroom has never really been known as an arena for exploring individuality and flare.

However, Guillaume Henry, designing for Carven showed that it could be done by simply juxtaposing an executive sartorial sensibility with a great outdoors influence. The innovative presentation was played out in a room set of filing cabinets and desks, to a soundtrack of French easy-listening punctuated by the electronic sounds of photocopy machines and manual typewriters. The collection itself included contemporary updates on the city boy suit, worn with slim trousers cropped to mid-calf, and was injected with retro ski-wear, such as a red mohair sweater or a hooded flannel parka with oversized collar.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for Valentino was a masterclass in scalpel-sharp tailoring and couture-influenced masculine elegance. A very British feel was adopted with references to Savile Row and neatly dressed 1960s English style icons, such as Michael Caine. It was all about the statement check suit, the cape as outerwear and luxury wool fabrics peppered with exotic furs as detail. Dark ink blue and raven green were the design duo’s new black and a state-of-the-art process that saw heat-bonded bands of leather slicing through traditional tailoring fabrics, which helped to install the message of luxury meets modernity.

The first day of Paris closed with a stellar collection presented by Raf Simons. Tank tops and polo neck knits in 1970s graphic patterns and shirts in bold pops of colour with spread-pointed collars were on show. Coats came belted and elegantly cut trousers that featured a cuff and that were two inches too long were draped at the back of the shoe, all of which harped back to the era when Ryan O’Neal planted his first kiss on Ali MacGraw in Love Story. While the references of 1970s youth culture were obvious, the result was modern and given a new subversive edge.

Grooming Tip:

Valentino’s slick presentation called for a polished look that was one part preppy, one part film noir, with lustrous textured hair that had a natural but well groomed finish. To achieve this, try L’Oreal Paris Studio Line FX Architect Styling Wax £3.56 (RRP) for 75ml; stockists 0800-0304 032, which will add structure and shine with no greasiness or residue. To complement the high shine texture of the hair, keep the skin as matte as possible, we recommend using L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Pure & Matte Exfoliating Wash, £6.12 (RRP) for 150ml; stockists 0800-0304 032 which will lay the foundation to a lasting healthy looking and shine-free complexion.

Related

Milan Fashion Week 1.jpg

Milan Fashion Week: Day 1

hero_milan_day2 (2).jpg

Milan Fashion Week: Day 2

hero_milan_day3.jpg

Milan Fashion Week: Day 3

Comments

More

Frank Carter picks his greatest frontmen and women of all time

The punk icon selects Nick Cave, Iggy Pop and more

16 Jan 2017

Trainer of the day: Saucony Liberty

America isn't ALL bad

by Jamie Carson
12 Jan 2017

13 coats and jackets to prepare you for the snowy weekend

The layers you need to hibernate in when the snow starts to fall

by Jamie Carson
11 Jan 2017

Boy George, Rami Malek and A$AP Rocky star in new Dior campaign

The new romantic legend looks slick AF

by Jamie Carson
11 Jan 2017

These are the 7 trends every man will embrace in 2017

From cowboy to punk, these are the key styles you'll be investing in this year

by Jamie Carson
10 Jan 2017

Win your very own bespoke tweed jacket from Huntsman

How to be in with a chance of owning a piece of Savile Row style

10 Jan 2017

The slickest street style shots from London Fashion Week Men's

The real action happens outside the shows

by Jamie Carson
10 Jan 2017

The best dressed men from the 2017 Golden Globe Awards

Iggy Pop wearing a tuxedo is disturbingly cool

by Jamie Carson
09 Jan 2017

These new Air Jordan Super Nintendos are seriously next level

Trainers that push all the right buttons

by James Bird
05 Jan 2017

The best menswear from the January sales

Brighten up the most depressing month of the year with some new threads

by Jamie Carson
04 Jan 2017