Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation
Top

Paris Fashion Week: Day 1

hero_milan_day4.jpg

ShortList's style director Adrian Clark reports back on the first day of the shows in the French capital

The pending triple-dip recession has influenced designers to consider the workplace as a new focus for their creativity. A challenging task as the boardroom has never really been known as an arena for exploring individuality and flare.

However, Guillaume Henry, designing for Carven showed that it could be done by simply juxtaposing an executive sartorial sensibility with a great outdoors influence. The innovative presentation was played out in a room set of filing cabinets and desks, to a soundtrack of French easy-listening punctuated by the electronic sounds of photocopy machines and manual typewriters. The collection itself included contemporary updates on the city boy suit, worn with slim trousers cropped to mid-calf, and was injected with retro ski-wear, such as a red mohair sweater or a hooded flannel parka with oversized collar.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for Valentino was a masterclass in scalpel-sharp tailoring and couture-influenced masculine elegance. A very British feel was adopted with references to Savile Row and neatly dressed 1960s English style icons, such as Michael Caine. It was all about the statement check suit, the cape as outerwear and luxury wool fabrics peppered with exotic furs as detail. Dark ink blue and raven green were the design duo’s new black and a state-of-the-art process that saw heat-bonded bands of leather slicing through traditional tailoring fabrics, which helped to install the message of luxury meets modernity.

The first day of Paris closed with a stellar collection presented by Raf Simons. Tank tops and polo neck knits in 1970s graphic patterns and shirts in bold pops of colour with spread-pointed collars were on show. Coats came belted and elegantly cut trousers that featured a cuff and that were two inches too long were draped at the back of the shoe, all of which harped back to the era when Ryan O’Neal planted his first kiss on Ali MacGraw in Love Story. While the references of 1970s youth culture were obvious, the result was modern and given a new subversive edge.

Grooming Tip:

Valentino’s slick presentation called for a polished look that was one part preppy, one part film noir, with lustrous textured hair that had a natural but well groomed finish. To achieve this, try L’Oreal Paris Studio Line FX Architect Styling Wax £3.56 (RRP) for 75ml; stockists 0800-0304 032, which will add structure and shine with no greasiness or residue. To complement the high shine texture of the hair, keep the skin as matte as possible, we recommend using L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Pure & Matte Exfoliating Wash, £6.12 (RRP) for 150ml; stockists 0800-0304 032 which will lay the foundation to a lasting healthy looking and shine-free complexion.

Related

Milan Fashion Week 1.jpg

Milan Fashion Week: Day 1

hero_milan_day2 (2).jpg

Milan Fashion Week: Day 2

hero_milan_day3.jpg

Milan Fashion Week: Day 3

Comments

More

Supreme's Michael Jackson collection is amazing and very sold out

Hype always wins

by Sam Diss
26 May 2017

Oi Polloi's new collab with Edwin is a slice of summer goodness

Delicious gelato vibes

by Sam Diss
24 May 2017

Farah drop vibesy new surf film 'The First Wave'

Time to grab your board (and your umbrella)

24 May 2017

'Sopranos' star fronts new Bergdorf Goodman x KITH NYC collab

Now we're talkin'

by Sam Diss
22 May 2017

Every single picture of Future is your sunglasses inspiration

Fuck with the vision

by Sam Diss
22 May 2017

KITH NYC tease new adidas footy collab that is too nice to play in

They'll be nice and safe at home

by Sam Diss
19 May 2017

Reebok are making their own version of the controversial RompHim

We don't even know what to think anymore

19 May 2017

In defence of cargo shorts: the most hated item of clothing around

Set aside your inhibitions and pick up the lazy man's icon

by Hussein Kesvani
19 May 2017

Coach drops NASA-inspired capsule collection and it's wicked

It's out of this world!!!!!!!

by Sam Diss
18 May 2017

adidas Consortium unveil new EQT collab made from furniture leather

The new EQT are very qt

by Sam Diss
17 May 2017