Seven influential designer brands preview their autumn/winter 2012 collections with ShortList
(Photography: Christian Ammann)
There is a feel of aristocratic Edwardian pageantry about Miuccia Prada’s collection for autumn 2012. The structured and empowering silhouettes are very slim, in rich jacquards or diplomatic tailoring fabrics, multi-layered under the jackets and high up to the chin, with a turtleneck, shirt and waistcoat.
Khaki striped blazer £1,380, grey shirt £335, black gilet £560, grey striped trousers £525, grey flower pen £155, black comb holder with guns and roses design £135 and white pocket square £50 (all in jacket pocket), pink sunglasses with silver frame to order, all by PRADA; 020-7647 5000
“I was interested in the impact of Japanese design on Paris in the Eighties, of how modern global fashion began to unfold and its impact today,” says Kim Jones, creative director of Louis Vuitton, about his autumn line. New York-based fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez and his influence in the Seventies inspired Jones’s interpretation of the fashion dialogue between Tokyo and Paris.
Grey suit jacket with light brown sleeves £1,780, white striped silk shirt £505, silk tie £120, wool checked trousers £645 and brown crocodile and silver plated boots £5,694 all by LOUIS VUITTON; louisvuitton.com
Visconti Grunge is the best way to summarise Gucci’s bohemian take on dandy dressing this autumn. Creative director Frida Giannini describes the creative process: “Tortured poets, fabrics that allude to the 19th century, softly oversized pieces, shirts with a dandy hint and the nonchalance of a newly arrived young Hollywood actor.”
Peacock Liberty jacquard dandy jacket with floral jacquard lining £1,980, soil cashmere rib knit cardigan £715 and ink wool mohair brushed gabardine sport pant £490 all by GUCCI; 020-7235 6707
Since its collaboration with H&M, slumbering fashion giant Versace has finally been woken, and it has risen back up the ranks to once again be considered part of the top tier in influential fashion brands this autumn. Pulling no punches, the collection ‘Tough Glamour’ features a mix of early-Nineties psychedelic ghetto-bling culture, with strict but luxe military classics.
Brown tweed belted coat approx £1,269, red corduroy shirt with two front pockets and four gold buttons £309 and red cotton trousers with gold military buttons down the side £634 all by VERSACE; 020-7259 5700
Christopher Bailey explores a quintessentially British look this season for Burberry’s runway collection that follows an elegant and rural path. Using woodland rich colours including honey, bilberry and teal, country classics are revisited, such as quilted shooting jackets mixed with Donegal tweed tailoring.
White cotton poplin classic-fit shirt £195, dark auburn quilted shearling equestrian field jacket £7,000, dark charcoal melange canvas wool trousers £595 and brown ‘Norbury’ leather rubber lace-up shoes £385 all by BURBERRY; burberry.com
DOLCE & GABBANA
The new season sees this duo taking a more embellished and baroque approach to formal dressing. Tailoring fabrics such as pinstripe, herringbone and velvet in grey hues have have been treated in new ways (boiled, painted, aged). And gold filigree thread embroidery – inspired by the Sicilian opera houses –adds faded splendor.
Brown trousers approx £605, grey knit sweater with gold filigree thread embroidery approx £5,005 and black lace-up leather shoes approx £1,149 all by DOLCE & GABBANA; 020-7659 9000
Having an intuitive for what’s contemporary, looking to the future and retaining a strong connection with the past; these are values Giorgio Armani has consistently held. To this end, this season’s collection reinterprets classic patterns of men’s fabrics with a touch of irony. Stretch fabrics feature, emphasising the concept of elasticity and maintaining comfort.
Grey cashmere patch pocket blazer £2,200, white pinstripe cotton shirt £225, black satin tie £195 and black pleat front jersey trousers from £595 all by GIORGIO ARMANI; 020-7235 6232