Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation
Top

Military influences rule London Fashion Week

MenswearDay-HERO.jpg

If the catwalks of London Fashion Week are any indicator (there’s no question really — they are), this autumn’s big trend will be First World War military styles.

First up was McQ — Alexander McQueen’s junior line (pictured, right). With a new store opening on London’s Dover Street in late spring, this event worked to raise its profile. Its stellar collection of sharp tailoring included sweeping coats in traditional English fabrics, such as leather and shearling.

It was a look echoed by UK designer Lou Dalton (pictured, centre), who invented a ‘simple wartime love story’ to explain her collection, which involved a conscripted officer forced to adapt to rural civilian life having abandoned his post for a girl. It informed a mix of military cloths, rural cable knits, vintage checks, workwear cottons and quilt. Similarly to McQ, Dalton used another British classic — Dr Martens — to finish the look.

But it wasn’t all influenced by Lord Kitchener and trench foot. Another top-of-its-game collection was from Topman Design (pictured, left), the high-street chain’s trend-focused line. Inspired by photographer Robert Mapplethorpe’s snaps of a young Patti Smith, it had a rebellious attitude in heavy coats in rich textured fabrics, cinched at the waist with studded belts. These were worn with leather trousers (set to be a big trend) and silk shirts in Mapplethorpe’s iconic monochromatic lily prints.

Other shows of note included James Long, again proving he is the knitwear name to drop, and Oliver Spencer with his shrugged-fit take on menswear classics. But it was the military collections that made the biggest impact. Bayonets (obviously) not included.

Related

Brolly-HERO.jpg

Britain's Best Brollies

sonarwatch.png

The world's coolest watches

HERO_Skiwear.jpg

Freestyle wraps

Comments

More

Here's what to wear this summer to hide your sweat patches

Nobody will ever know

by Gary Ogden
09 May 2017

Check out Stance's new line of lairy Fresh Prince socks

Sock it to 'em

by Gary Ogden
28 Apr 2017

Want some jeans with built-in mud splatters? That’ll be £350

Sorry, how much was that again?

by Tom Victor
27 Apr 2017

6 reasons to take Spanish fashion seriously

ShortList’s style director Adrian Clark picks his menswear highlights from 080 Barcelona fashion week

by Adrian Clark
15 Feb 2017

Supreme channels somebody called Barack Obama in new collection

Never heard of him, tbh.

by Sam Diss
15 Feb 2017

The 10 Hottest Trainers for February 2017

Time to break open the Thomas the Tank Engine piggy bank, lads...

by Sam Diss
10 Feb 2017

Menswear brands you need to know in 2017

We reveal the labels you'll be dropping serious dollar on this year

by Jamie Carson
02 Feb 2017

The best dressed guys at London's Jacket Required menswear show

Find out where you can steal their looks from without breaking into their property

by Jamie Carson
31 Jan 2017

Valentine's Gift Guide 2017: what to buy the man in your life

Some very good hints to drop to your loved one

by Jamie Carson
26 Jan 2017

ASOS release vintage Romeo & Juliet inspired collection

A stylish homage to the 1996 Leonardo DiCaprio version

by Jamie Carson
25 Jan 2017