ShortList’s style director Adrian Clark gives the low-down on the recent London, Milan and Paris catwalks, with ten defining moments that will shape the key trends for spring 2015
1. PRADA’S TOPSTITCHED DENIM
Although a universal fabric that is never far from favour, denim hasn’t had a ‘moment’ on the international catwalks for several seasons. For spring 2015, Prada has given the utilitarian cloth a new lease of life, using rich indigo dyed hues and retro 1970’s contrast topstitching. Expect to see an abundance of Brady Bunch inspired boot-cut jeans and Burt Reynolds influenced safari jackets come the turn of winter.
2. NASIR MAZHAR’S URBAN SPORTSWEAR
Citing London’s underground garage music scene as his inspiration, Mazhar’s urban sportswear dominated collection - with oversized layered shorts featuring signature contrast elastic waistbands, billowing shirts left open, baseball caps, back packs and Velcro fastened sneakers - best epitomised the casual direction that many designers have taken for the forthcoming season.
3. DSQUARED2’S HEALTHY LOOK TAN
Pale and interesting is no longer fashionable, as designers embraced the new healthy lifestyle and a glowing tan that goes with it as spring 2015’s new role model. The best way to fake it is with L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Hydra Energetic X-Treme Healthy Look Mosituriser (£9.99 for 50ml, 0800-0304 032). For an instant subtle glow with no “orange tone”, the dark translucent gel melts instantly into the skin for an ultra-natural result. Apply 2 pumps of the tinted gel on clean skin and reapply for a more intense look. It reacts with the skin for a natural-looking colour, and boosts the skin’s moisture levels for optimum hydration.
4. BURBERRY PRORSUM’S POP-ART SNEAKERS
In keeping with the relaxed mood cited for spring 2015, sneakers – worn with everything – will be a ‘thing’. Christopher Bailey’s colour-blocked running shoes, worn with tailored looks (used to soften the edge of summer suiting) will inspire many copycat hybrids to flood the high streets.
5. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S TRIBUTE TO MATISSE
Psychedelic prints ruled the runways this season. Alexander McQueen’s cocoon shaped coats, leather blousons and double-breasted suits in swirls of monochrome Matisse inspired abstract pattern accented in scarlet red best summed up the mood towards mind-bending, op-art surface decoration.
6. VERSACE’S GRECIAN INSPIRED CURLS
With many designers choosing a traditional Grecian influence to take their collections forward into summer 2015, Mediterranean curls were a refreshing direction for grooming that hasn’t been in favour since the late 1980’s. To get the right sheen and texture from home try L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Architect Shine Wax (£3.56 for 75ml, 0800-0304 032), which aids style with structure whilst adding shine. The wax glides through hair without leaving any greasiness or residue and washes out easily due to its water based formula.
7. LANVIN’S LUXURY SPIN ON THE FISHING BAG
Function and practicality was a message of paramount importance across the board in London, Milan and Paris for spring, with well-designed, purposeful items making an impact, reworked in luxury fabrics. Fishing and hunting satchels in unorthodox tailoring cloths (such as Prince of Wales check at Lanvin), corduroy and silk satin will be a must-own accessory come the turn of winter.
8. VALENTINO’S PYJAMA PARTY
Silk pyjama pants, pyjama suits and dressing gown robes were a light and carefree way to ease through the summer months favoured by many designers such as Dries Van Noten and J. W Anderson, but best witnessed at Valentino. Mismatched floral and wallpaper inspired prints in dark jewel tones were a highlight of the Valentino show and will be a major influence on print and pattern stories picked up by the high street.
9. DRIES VAN NOTEN’S LOOSE LAYERS
Lightweight fabrics and oversized silhouettes for both tailored and casual layering were a key message in all three of the fashion capitals. Unstructured trench coats, liquid silks for oversized t-shirts, and trousers that fell in pools of fabric at the ankle were held to the body with harnesses at Dries Van Noten and herald a return to softer edged, less structured dressing.
10. MISSONI’S BOHEMIAN SURF DUDE HAIR
Low-maintenance, surf and skate dude inspired hair was favoured by many designers this season, to accompany the many psychedelic surfer and hedonistic bohemian inspired fashions shown. To achieve the look, try using L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Matt & Messy Shine-Free Salt Spray (£3.56 for 150ml, 0800-0304 032) perfect for maintaining tousled and textured long hair for that ‘just off the beach’ look.