ShortList’s Style Director, Adrian Clark, serves up his verdict on the London, Milan and Paris catwalk shows, previewing fashion trends for spring/summer 2016.
In association with L’OREAL PARIS
Prize the twitching net curtains from your neighbour’s grip, lace and embroidered sheer fabrics made a debut at both Gucci and at Burberry Prorsum, and in the form of suspenders styled with sportswear at DSquared2.
Shunning their humble beginnings, indigo denim fabrics with luxe finishes were evident at many of the shows across all three capitals – at their finest seen best at McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Lemaire and Valentino Uomo.
Paul Smith’s London presentation of a new range of suits with added stretch in their fibre content - aimed at the city cycle commuter - was one of the highlights of LCM, it reinforced the trend for designers using extreme sportsmen instead of models, such as BMX cyclists and skateboarders at Jimmy Choo.
Luckily, you have plenty of time before spring 2016 to grow your hair, the trend – in keeping with the soft rock ‘Fleetwood Mac’ inspiration and West Coast surf trends that both littered the runway – for longer locks with a ‘dirty’ texture can best be achieved by using a surf spray. We recommend L’Oreal Studio Line Matt & Messy Salt Spray £3.79 for 150ml; boots.com
Taking Northern Soul as its starting point, and its signature inverted pleat high-wasted trouser as the core to its collection, Topman Design lead the pack at LCM. Wider leg trousers were without question the unsung heroes across the European schedule of shows, also looking strong at E. Tautz and Raf Simons.
While we know her beauty will be preserved forever, Marilyn Monroe also served as reference for standout print ‘moments’ in a stellar show from Belgian designer Dries van Noten, who showed his collection in Paris.
Oriental silks, traditional Japanese prints, and kimono cutting for jackets and robes swept the runways, making the East meets West trend one of the most important to buy into for next spring. Our favourite advocates came from Alexander McQueen, Astrid Andersen, Craig Green and Louis Vuitton.
It’s all about a statement trainer for spring 2016. From Louboutin’s mock python in parrot orange and blue or Choo’s fluro hi-tops, through to Zanotti’s rhinestone sneakers and Bally’s Optical chevron appliques.
London, Milan, Paris, San Diego?!... the hot reference that had obviously littered all of the designer’s mood boards for spring 2016 was Californian surf culture, (DSquared2, Saint Laurent, Topman Design, etc). To pull the look off the key accessory is a tan, nobody likes a wave chaser. Unless you have two weeks booked in the Carribbean ahead of the collections arriving next Feb, can we recommend a fake tan that actually does look real, L’Oreal Men Expert Hydra Energetic X-Treme Instant Healthy Look Moisturiser, £10.69 for 50ml; boots.com
Venturing where no man has gone before, the imminent (due for release in December) Star Wars movie has had a major influence on men’s style. Bobby Abley did it best, but Wooyoungmi and Rick Owens both produced other worldly collections.
Lesson to be learnt: if you are going to put scarves over the faces of the models you send out on your industrially constructed four foot high runway, you are going to have casualties. More than one of the boys in Raf Simons show over shot the end of the runway.
Satin jackets with contrast sleeves and embroidered motifs on the back (think Gosling in Drive) made a surprise repeat performance across the shows, best at Louis Vuitton, Valentino Uomo and Saint Laurent. Great minds obviously do think alike.
Much of the front row audiences were sporting Gucci loafers this season. Showing it’s not ALL about what we see on the runways, the most popular was the new Gucci loafer for autumn, which is backless and lined in fur. They were sold out in the Milan boutique within hours of the fashion pack descending on the city.
Star of the Breaking Bad series, RJ Mitte was THE celebrity to have in your front row this season. Eclipsing that, Westwood even sent him down the runway in his modelling debut, wearing a breast printed harness.
The winner in the ‘what-all-the-editors-were-wearing’ sweepstake, was the short sleeve silk shirt featuring a Hawaiian, tropical or floral print. More of the finest follow this splendid choice...