Have you ever wanted to look as cool as Patrick Swayze and Keanu Reeves in Point Break, gliding over monster waves like a graceful dolphin? Quiksilver-sponsored surfer and XXL Big Wave Awards nominee Gabe Davies (Quiksilver.co.uk) can show you how.
1) “You need to know your limits, so watch the sea for half an hour before you go in. Once you’re in the water, look back to the coast to line yourself up, so that when the wave comes you’re in the right position. At this point you should be sitting on your board. When the wave approaches you, spin from sitting up and facing out to sea to a prone position, pointing towards the beach. Get your head down, and paddle at top speed away from the wave. The board should be matching the speed of the wave.”
2) “The take-off is the most critical and dangerous part of the wave, which will now be vertical and becoming increasingly hollow. You need to time your take-off with the energy of the wave. You’ve got to jump on to your feet and take the drop from the very top of the wave.”
3) “For the drop, you want a low centre of gravity. Slightly more weight on your back foot will prevent the nose of the board digging, and pressure on the fins will help acceleration and control. Look for where you’ll turn as you’re taking the drop.”
4) “Once you’ve hit the bottom of the wave, start turning. This will allow you to ride along the face of the wave, through the barrel. The bottom turn involves a low crouch and compression as you put the board on its inside rail. This gives you acceleration to surf the rest of the wave.”
