Cool Stuff
Review: St Pancras Grand
King's Cross finally has the restaurant it deserves
Posted: 06 November 2008, 10:11
User Rating
10/10 (1 vote)
St Pancras Grand
Upper Concourse, St Pancras International, Euston Rd, NW1 2QP, 020 7870 9900
In 1938, the Flying Scotsman took seven hours, 20 minutes to reach Edinburgh from London. I travelled on the same route earlier this year and it took eight hours, 15 minutes. The 1930s were the golden age of rail travel. Trains were comfortable, departure lounges had more fine furnishings than Christie’s, and the catering staff called you ‘Sir’. Today, trains consist almost entirely of grey plastic, departure lounges double up as urinals and the food trolley attendant runs over your feet to say thank you for buying a sandwich. That may be about to change. The £800 million terminal at Kings Cross has suddenly made rail travel cool again. And Searcy’s new restaurant, St Pancras Grand is trying to make eating at Europe’s shiniest terminal just just as trendy.
Located on the lonely upper level of the international terminal – opposite the champagne bar – the interior draws heavily on art-deco, which, coincidentally also reached its pinnacle in the 1930s. Giant gold rimmed orbs light a dining area neatly divided by low-rise banquettes. The staff, dressed elegantly in black and white emerge from mirrored doors to patrol the widened walkways to accommodate larger luggage. The food meanwhile bridges neatly between English and European, gourmet and everyman, offering British staples such as bangers and mash (£10.25) alongside more upmarket dishes such as steamed seabass (£23). I opted for the fish soup: spicy, warming and moreish to the point of running your finger round the finished bowl. The belly pork (£15.50) was brutal in its simplicity, but when you’re presented with meat as rich and fat laden as this, it would be a crime to do anything more than warm it up a little. Deserts are plucked from the school dinner chain of thinking (jelly and ice cream, trifle, Eton mess), but true to the rest of the meal, was executed brilliantly. The chocolate tart (£6.50) was wonderfully bitter, and the ice cream rich enough to cope. The only question you ask yourself is, ‘would anyone not going to Paris come and eat here?’ The answer to that is an unequivocal yes. The station is still the only decent thing worth seeing in what is still essentially a dilapidated, run-down part of town. After you’ve quaffed a few glasses of champagne, what better way to celebrate the second dawning of the train era?
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mitty
Posted 2 months ago
I ate here a few weeks ago to cheer myself up before a long journey. Crispy roast duck, creamy mash and vegetables, quality comfort food done well. Reasonably priced too. In spite of its size the atmosphere is still quite cosy, and it's a great way to escape the craziness below.
AMG
Posted 2 months ago
This restaurant is the perfect winter destination! Surrounded by the glorious newly renovated St Pancras Grand station, one really feels like they are being transported back to the 1920's days of chic and elegance. A walk through the front doors and the cosy decadent light hits you and immediately you are sucked in. The decor is tasteful and high class and the waiters complete the historic image dressed in deco style black and white. I ordered a simple British classic - sausages and mash but there was nothing ordinary about the dish. Rich in flavour and perfectly presented. Sister to the visible Champagne Bar, the cuisine makes the night a royal occasion. St Pancras Grand has exceeded the boundaries of being simply a pre-travel dinner spot and is a decedent and truly delicious destination restaurant in its own right. I’ll be accompanying my family there for a Christmas get-together!